At 5,164 metres, Gorak Shep is a tiny cluster of teahouses on a flat, sandy lakebed beside the Khumbu Glacier. There are no trees, no fields and very little color, only rock, ice and enormous mountains. Pumori rises right above the village, and the long ridgeline of Nuptse fills the horizon. For most trekkers, this is where the Everest Base Camp journey reaches its high point.

The walk to Gorak Shep
From Lobuche, the trail climbs along the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, crossing rocky, uneven terrain with views of Pumori, Lingtren and Khumbutse. The pace is slow, the air is thin and the scenery is stark. After a few hours, the cluster of lodges appears on the lakebed below.

Visiting Everest Base Camp
Most itineraries drop their bags at Gorak Shep, rest and head to Everest Base Camp the same day, returning by late afternoon. The walk takes about 3 hours one way along the glacier. Base Camp itself is a field of tents and prayer flags with the Khumbu Icefall above. Note that Everest’s summit is not visible from Base Camp.

Sunrise at Kala Patthar
The next morning, trekkers rise before dawn and climb Kala Patthar (5,644 m), a black rocky ridge above the village. The climb takes about 1.5 to 2 hours and is cold, steep and demanding, but the reward is the best view of Everest on the trek, with sunrise lighting the summit and surrounding peaks.

Life in the village
Gorak Shep is simple and basic. Lodges are cold, rooms are small and facilities are limited. Meals are warming and plain: soup, noodles, dal bhat and hot drinks. Electricity is limited and charging costs extra.

Altitude and health
At 5,164 metres, the air holds roughly half the oxygen found at sea level. Headaches, poor sleep and loss of appetite are common. Walk slowly, stay hydrated, avoid alcohol and tell your guide immediately about worsening symptoms. Descending is the most effective response to serious altitude sickness.

Practical tips
Bring a warm sleeping bag, a down jacket, thermal layers, gloves, a headlamp and spare batteries, as cold drains them quickly. Carry enough cash, since there are no ATMs. Keep your water bottle inside your sleeping bag overnight so it does not freeze.